East Sooke Park: Aylard Farm

Old growth Douglas-fir at Aylard Farm, East Sooke Park

At one time a mysterious consortium of European investors owned much of the land in East Sooke. They had big visions of a private luxury resort and hunting preserve that would cater to the international jet set. Fortunately for nature lovers everywhere, the exclusive domain of the rich fell into a financial and legal morass, and the landowners were forced to sell some of their extensive East Sooke land holdings.

In 1970 the Victoria Capital Regional District purchased a significant piece from the stressed landowners. The purchase price was $520,000, and East Sooke Park was born. Now everyone is welcome to enjoy this rugged 3417 acre park and its native petroglyphs, rugged coastline, sandy beaches and magnificent forest.

Aylard Farm's meadows of clover, wild rose, and blue-eyed grass

East Sooke Park can be enjoyed via 50 km of trails, including the knee-punishing 10 km Coast Trail. The park's semi-wilderness has several entrances, including the Aylard Farm access point off of East Sooke Road via Becher Bay Road.

East Sooke lies in the Western Very Dry Maritime Coastal Western Hemlock Zone. Although the forests were selectively logged decades ago, and the sea harvested for its bounty, this remains a wild land. The park visitor is advised to watch small dogs and children as cougars and black bears still populate these coastal lands.

Ocean glimpses through the trees invite the hiker to the sandy beach below

Much of Aylard Farm and the rest of East Sooke Park is covered in second growth trees 60 - 100 years old. Because it was selectively logged, rather than clear cut, old growth trees of +250 years can still be seen.

Old growth forest near the Alyard park access can primarily be found at Creyke Point. The main forest consists of large Douglas-fir, Western hemlock, and closer to the ocean, Sitka spruce.

The coastal bluffs support upland ecosystems of Garry oak, Arbutus, and the twisted, tortured Shore pine. These trees are often small as they inhabit thin-soiled areas over bedrock and are exposed to harsh winter winds and storms.

Getting There

East Sooke Park is 35 km west of Victoria. Allow about an hour to drive and be able to enjoy the ample scenery. A couple of different routes are possible.

Old Island Highway From Victoria

Take the Old Island Highway (#1A) to Sooke Road. Follow Sooke Road (#14) to Happy Valley Road, turn left and continue down Happy Valley. Turn right on Rocky Point Road, which veers right to become East Sooke Road, and leads to the park. The entrance at Aylard Farm is at the end of Becher Bay Road, and left hand turn off East Sooke Road.

Trans-Canada/Highway 1 From Victoria

Follow the Trans-Canada Highway (#1) from Victoria, and take the Colwood exit. Follow the Old Island Highway (#1A), which turns into Sooke Road (#14). From Sooke Road, turn left on Gillespie Road. Turn left on East Sooke Road, then right on Becher Bay Road to reach the park entrance.

Pioneers of The Coastal Forest: Shore Pine

Tenacious Shore pine in Roche Cove Regional Park, Sooke, BC
(can you spot the Kingfisher on the tree?)

The sun-loving Shore pine Pinus contorta var. contorta is one of the smaller members of the coastal rain forest tree community, but it is one of the most important. 10,000 years ago as the last glaciers receded, it was the varieties of Lodgepole pine (Pinus contorta) that were the first trees to move in. Shore pine pioneered the coastal forest.

The pines are successful pioneer trees because they are able to live in extreme habitats that are unfavorable to other potentially competitive species.

On infertile soils, Lodgepole pine is often the only tree species that will grow. Scraggly, stunted stands can survive on bare gravel, while adventurous individuals can even scrape by on a rock.

Shore pine is one of four varieties of the species Lodgepole pine. Lodgepole pine has the widest range of environmental tolerance of any conifer in North America. Inland varieties of Lodgepole pine are found from 490 to 3660 m (1,600 to 12,000 ft), while the Shore pine is found from ocean-side up to the sub-alpine zone at 610 m/2,000 ft.

Under ideal conditions Shore pine reach 6-15 m (20-50 ft) in height, while their twisted trunks can measure up to 15-50 cm (6-20 in) in diameter. What it lacks in size, it makes up in tenacity and character.

Lone pine has nice view

Shore pine's range is in a narrow band along the coast, where it toughs out gale force winds with Western hemlock and Sitka spruce. Like the Sitka spruce, Shore pine can survive the strong, salt-laden spray blowing off the ocean. Shore pine is also a major component of coastal boggy areas.

Shore pine is a two-needled tree with inch-thick, deeply grooved, dark reddish-brown bark. Small trees can still be old, with their age shown in the fractured bark and gnarly bonsai appearance. In extreme cases 70-year-old trees can be only 1.2 m (4 ft) in height or less, and as small as 2.5 cm (1 in) or smaller in diameter.

In mixed stands, Shore pine may form scrubby thickets or sparse to dense groves of twisted, contorted trees. Sometimes they go it alone, toughing it out on a rock in scenic oceanfront locations. Due to their challenging locations, Shore pine are not long-lived trees like some of their relatives, managing only a century at best.

The Shore pine's heritage makes it uniquely suited for tough jobs, like breaking a rock down, or being the first tree to move in to a new location. From foggy oceanfront to high in the clouds on rocky peaks at almost 4000 m (12,000 ft), the varieties of Lodgepole pine are certifiably tough trees.

The Shore pine were pioneers, preparing the way for the coastal forest's giant species that followed in their root steps.