The Big Tree Art of George Tirrell: Saving Mariposa Grove

The Grizzled Giant, Sketch from nature, by G. Tirrell.

Giant sequoia, native to California, are amazing trees that can be found on Vancouver Island in Victoria. All were brought here by pioneers from the south as seeds or small trees in the 1800s. It is no wonder that people took the seeds and saplings with them - they were so impressed with these unbelievably large conifers that they did not wish to leave them behind. The pioneers left a legacy in these heritage trees that rise above all others.

Artist George Tirrell left a lasting legacy in the 1800s when he became the first person to sketch Mariposa Grove in what would later become Yosemite National Park. This grove of massive Giant sequoia quickly gained legendary status, and pilgrimages to this natural cathedral became popular. "Go to the Mariposa Grove," Alfred Lambourne advised, "and linger there until the lessons of the place sink deep into your heart".

The Devil's Spear, G. Tirrell

The Mariposa Grove contains many mighty trees. When Europeans first laid eyes on these massive columns of wood they could hardly believe it. When witnesses described the trees to others they were accused of exagerating and/or lying. But the stories were true, and nothing like the Giant sequoias had been seen before.

The Twins, Mariposa Grove, G. Tirrel

Artists like George Tirrell, were inspired by these newly discovered, cloud-scraping monuments. No doubt his work was instrumental in this global treasure eventually being protected.

Artists volunteered their work for this 1989 fund raising book

Similar efforts by artists have helped to save many of BC's beautiful ancient trees just as noteworthy and wow-inspiring as the Giant sequoias of Mariposa Grove. The campaign to save the Carmanah Valley, for example, was stunningly moved along by many Canadian artists that visited Canada's tallest trees and creatively depicted what they saw and felt.

"Campfire conversations would often turn to the stark contrast between the haunting beauty of Carmanah's virgin forest and the slash-choked, burned and blackened clearcuts that lie just outside the watershed. The artists spoke of how the distant growl of heavy logging equipment, carried by the wind from the next valley, affected them...a constant reminder as they sketched and painted, of why they were there." From: Wilderness Committee

Their efforts, like those of artists like George Tirrell before them, helped us to see the amazing beauty and diversity we would be missing if we failed to act.

Carmanah Rain Forest Canopy Research Station First Of Its Kind

Collecting moss in the Rain Forest Canopy Research Centre, Credit: Bob Herger

A common misconception is that when we cut old growth forests all we are taking is the trees. But when we clear cut forests we are decimating entire ecosystems. Old growth trees and forests provide habitat for thousands of species. Kill the trees and you kill most of the other species, too.

Until 1992 there had not been any systematic study of the northern temperate rain forest canopy - we had no idea of the diversity we were destroying. Then the Western Canada Wilderness Committee set up the first ever rain forest canopy research station in a cluster of 5 Sitka spruce over 60 m tall in the then threatened Carmanah Valley.

Volunteers built rope climbing systems to scale the great heights of the old trees. A variety of platforms at different spots up the trunks were set in place, and rope bridges were strung to connect them all together.

Since then researchers have collected over 3 million insects in this extensive study, and of the species that have been identified, 300 were new to science. This forest contains more biomass per square meter than any other forest on earth. Its richness is reflected in the research that has been done here.

It is evident that many living things require ancient forests that have not been disturbed for hundreds of years. Such a forest has mixed aged trees ranging from seedlings to massive old growth. Standing dead wood, and fallen trees on the ground provide habitat and nutrients for this web of life. But can't this delicate web be maintained in second growth forests that grow after the original forest is gone?

No. Second growth forests do not provide the structure and conditions old growth reliant species require. The Wilderness Committee says,

"The primary problem is that second-growth tree plantations and old-growth forests are very different. Unfortunately, the goal of B.C.’s forest management system is to replace our wild forests with tree farms that are clear cut after 40 to 120 years, long before they acquire old-growth features. Only by slowing down the excessive rate of cut and establishing large protected areas will we ensure that we always have ecologically viable tracts of ancient forests on Vancouver Island."

Some of the creatures that require the massive trees that grow in forests older than two or three hundred years are: spotted owls, salamanders, marbeled murrelets, salmon, bald eagles, many species of insects and spiders, as well as thousands of life forms not yet studied.

The Carmanah Valley Rain Forest Canopy Research Station is providing us with a glimpse into the deep, dark, and unknown forest. This ground-breaking research is showing us that eliminating most of Vancouver Island's forests and replacing them with even-aged tree plantations spells doom for the survival of many species.

No doubt we have already caused the extinction of many creatures that we will never know about. Let's save what is left. Say, "NO" to old growth logging in British Columbia, and around the world. We must ensure that we always have ecologically intact areas of ancient forests for everything that is dependent upon them... including us.

VIBT Big Tree Olympian Awards

"Giants like this will not be seen again
for five or ten centuries, perhaps never."
Randy Stoltman, Big Trees (1987)

photo: http://www.cathedralgrove.eu/text/01-Cathedral-Grove-3.htm

Never mind Olympic hockey, I'm rooting for the ancient forest Big Tree Olympians - the heroes of big tree preservation. The Pacific coast forest has some of the biggest trees around, and thankfully, it has individuals that have worked for years, usually without pay or recognition, to protect this vanishing
10 000 year old forest ecosystem.


I thought it fitting during the 2010 Winter Olympics that VIBT hands out a few medals of its own in recognition of those who have gone Citius, Altius, Fortius in their passion and dedication to the big trees and the things that live among them.


Often these defenders of the voiceless and powerless do their work at great personal sacrifice, up against well-funded corporate lawyers, an endless drive toward growth and profit, and intransigent government officials.





Tourism BC's recently revamped website states that "much of Vancouver Island is protected parkland", and that it contains "many pockets" of old growth forest.



What it does not tell you is that the grandeur of these disappearing islands of isolated ancient trees is surrounded by industrial clear cuts and 2nd or 3rd growth tree plantations. 75% of Vancouver Islands original forest has been logged.

Cheewhat Cedar, Pacific Rim National Park

Since saving the big trees is a cooperative effort, rather than a competitive one, the Big Tree Hunter Olympian Awards are non-hierarchical dendro-medals. There are no losers here - everyone wins.

Randy Stoltman Grove, Carmanah/Walbran Provincial Park
Photo: http://www.cathedralgrove.eu/text/05-Pictures-Politics-3.htm

In no particular order, VIBT salutes the following enthusiasts who have worked tirelessly in the defense of big trees and ancient forests. Their dedication will allow future generations to see that at one time giants inhabited the Pacific coastal forest:


The Cedar Medal: Maywell Wickheim, Sooke: discovered the Cheewhat Cedar, Canada's largest tree. Has guided many hikes while educating others about the beauty and importance of big trees and wild places.


The Douglas fir Medal: Paul George, Gibsons: co-founder of Western Canada Wilderness Committee, an organization that has been educating the public and lobbying to ban the logging and exporting of ancient B.C. forests since 1980. They have an admirable list of successful campaigns including Clayoquot Sound, the largest area of ancient temperate rain forest left on Vancouver Island.


The Sitka spruce Medal: Randy Stoltman, deceased: big tree enthusiast and campaigner for WCWC. Discovered the tallest Sitka spruce trees in the world in the Carmanah watershed, and fought for protection of the area. Carmanah/Walbran Provincila Park, including the Randy Stoltman Grove, is a stunning cathedral of mist and green.

VIBT 'boughs' before the generous efforts of these Olympians.


The very pockets of old growth Tourism BC is touting on it's website would be gone if not for people like the award recipients.

Hanging Garden Tree, Meares Island, Clayoquot Sound
Photo: http://www.gotofino.com/tofinohikingtrailsbigtreemeares.html

Western Canada Wilderness Committee reports that 13% of Vancouver Islands's total land base is protected, but this includes only 6 % of its productive forests.



The remaining 94% of forests, including what is left of the old growth, is for industry, I guess. Unless we do something about it. Even Olympians need support.

Ask questions and avoid purchasing old growth wood products. Write your political representatives demanding an end to old growth destruction. Donate to forest preservation groups. Wipe with only 100% post-consumer toilet paper. Use alternatives, like rags, to disposable paper products. And see the big trees to see what we are in danger of losing.


Do you know someone who is working to save big trees and ancient forests? Please leave a comment here, or contact me via my profile to nominate for next year's 2nd Annual VIBT Big Tree Olympian Awards.

The Tallest Spruce Trees In The World: Carmanah/Walbran Provincial Park

My first visit to Carmanah Walbran Provincial Park was summer of 2006. It was a slow, rough drive into the heart of Vancouver Island's once-magnificent coastal forest. Our route took us from Sooke to Port Renfrew, past Cowichan Lake, and on to Nitinat Lake. The last services of the route are here, then the road climbs on toward the park. A sturdy vehicle, emergency supplies, and a good driver come in handy. A back roads map is essential.

While bumping along Rosander Main logging road past Nitinat, we were treated to vistas over the green mist-cloaked hills to the distant Pacific Ocean. Not far away is the West Coast Trail, but it is inaccessible from this side. We continued following the small provincial park signs sensing that we were getting close to Vancouver Islands tallest trees.

In addition to the coastal forest landscape you will witness "off-road" logging trucks carrying old-growth logs - only four or five huge columns of wood to each giant vehicle. This is a harsh and unforgiving forest environment and the road and industrial activity do not make it any safer. But without these roads most of this area would be largely inaccessible. Drive defensively - industrial traffic has the right of way and you must yield to them.

Knowing that in the mid-1980's the Carmanah valley was slated to be harvested makes it worth dodging logging trucks on roads riddled with potholes and stretches of washboard that will rattle your old fillings out. The park at the end of this road is unlike any other you have seen, or are likely to see anywhere else. It is a gargantuan green cathedral of mist-filtered light and stillness.

Carmanah valley was once considered too remote for profitable logging to take place. Then Randy Stoltman found the oldest, largest Sitka spruce trees in Canada, and the world. In the 1980's the B.C. government, without public consultation or notification, gave MacMillan Bloedel permission to clear cut the area.

Fearing a repeat of previous logging fiascos that ended in protest and protection, the logging company moved in quickly to harvest the valley. Randy Stoltman, tireless big tree defender, along with the Western Canada Wilderness Committee, mounted a campaign to protect the area's natural assets from destruction. In 1990, after sustained protests, Carmanah Park was formed.

At the end of your jarring ride you will find a pristine valley full of some of the world's largest trees. Today you will only see trees like these in small patches along the west coast of North America, and the forest of Carmanah Walbran holds some prime examples in a relatively large area. If you are not humbled here, you are not paying attention.



After passing through large clear cuts, one which extends right to the park gate, we arrived at the parking lot at the end of the road. I gazed up the trail at two tiny hikers dwarfed by the surrounding giants. I thought that the destruction of these trees to make plywood would be similar to going to the Temple of Karnak in Egypt, "harvesting" its 5000 year old columns (21m tall, and over 3m diameter), and crushing them to make gravel. Large Sitka spruce can be only a few hundred years old, but Western red cedar can grow for thousands of years. There are many large cedars in the park.


Canada's tallest (known) Sitka spruce (Picea sitchensis), the Carmanah Giant, towers 95 metres (315 ft) over the lush valley of Carmanah Creek. Its 9.4 meter diameter makes Karnak's columns look like toothpicks. However, visitors are not encouraged to hike the deteriorating trail to visit this record tree for fear of compromising the areas ecological integrity. It is good enough for me just to know that the Giant exists.

The third largest Sitka spruce in the world with a wood volume of 298 cubic meters (10,540 cu. ft.). It is 58.2 m (191 ft) high with a diameter of 5.39 m (17.7 ft.) at 1.37 m (4.5 ft.) above the ground. (Van Pelt, Robert, 2001, Forest Giants of the Pacific Coast, University of Washington Press.) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:QuinaltSpruce_7246c.jpg

The park is in the Very Wet Hypermaritime subzone, an area that is intimately affected by the nearby ocean, and can be wet any time of the year. When we visited it was drizzly, but the real problem was the cloud of mosquitoes hunting us down. Our meals were eaten with one hand shoveling the food in, and the other hand waving the mosquitoes away. When even that became too much the only option was to run through the parking lot taking hasty stabs at our food.

Mosquitoes may be the most obvious wildlife here, but they are not the only wildlife. The old growth forest here maintains a rich web of life that can not exist in the second and third-growth forests that have replaced the original forest on much of Vancouver Island. This is a special place.

Spotted owls, marbled murrelets, wolves, trout and salmon, black bears, bats, pileated woodpeckers, red-backed voles, salamanders, banana slugs, flying squirrels. All of that and more is here to be discovered, enjoyed, and protected.

Carmanah Walbran Park is isolated and difficult to get to, and once there you will find no comforts of civilization. This park is about wilderness, and in that regard it delivers. However, encroachement continues. Without a buffer zone, clearcuts extend right up to park boundries. As we hiked and camped in this magical place we watched helicopters swinging giant columns out of the surrounding forests to staging grounds. Their thundering rotors resonated in our chests, or was that our hearts going out to the destruction of the 10 000 year old forest and the creatures that used to live there?

If not for Randy Stoltman, the Western Canada Wilderness Committee, and thousands of regular big tree supporters, Carmanah valley and the largest Stika spruce on the planet would have been reduced to a ravaged landscape.


View Larger Map

For now it remains one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. If the government works for us, and we want big trees saved, then why is the government backing the logging companies and the temporary jobs that old growth harvesting represents? What will they do when all the old growth is gone?

Visit Carmanah Walbran and try not to become a big tree enthusiast. This is the kind of place that can change your life. It did mine.