Ponderosa Pine Of Central BC

Vancouver Island Big Trees is on the road. Yes, 'The Tree People' have left the Pacific Temperate Rainforest, and are on the way to getting established in the Acadian Forest of Nova Scotia.

In the meantime, we will be posting on big trees that we encounter along our 6500 km cross-Canada journey.

The trees featured in this post are the glorious red-barked ponderosa pines, the tallest pine species in North America. These inhabitants of the dry interior of BC are in some respects more admirable than the big trees on the coast. Why? Because these trees don't have the benefits of ample rainfall, or rich soils.

And yet, the pines manage to grow quite huge, as shown by these photos of an impressive trio at the Bromely Rock Rest Area along scenic Highway 3, also known as the Crowsnest Highway.

While the coast forest includes the stunted and twisted shore pines, you need to travel  few hundred kilometres east before you can see pines of the size of the stately but threatened ponderosa.

Ponderoas pines are susceptible to attacks by the pine beetle. Indeed, many old growth sites have been decimated by the tiny attacker.

With the dual threats of bark beetles and climate change hanging heavily over the entire ponderosa range, it is not known if these trees will survive the upcoming decades of potential turmoil.

Don't wait, visit these trees now before they are gone.

You will know them when you see them, but if not this series of pictures will help you
identify these amazing trees that can grow for up to 500 years or more.

In January 2011, a Pacific ponderosa pine in the Siskiyou National Forest in Oregon was measured with a laser to be 81.79 m (268.35 ft)  tall. The measurement was performed by Michael Taylor and Mario Vaden, a professional arborist from Oregon.

The tree was climbed on October 13, 2011, by Ascending The Giants (a tree climbing company in Portland, Oregon) and directly measured with tape-line at 268.29 ft (81.77 m) high. This is now the tallest known pine.

The tallest known ponderosa pine in BC is listed in the BC Big Tree Registry. It is 49.9 m (164 ft) tall and is found on the Coldstream Ranch southeast of Vernon. 

Mapping BC's Big Tree Registry

View Original Map by Craig Williams

Red Creek Fir, Port Renfrew

As big tree tourism gains momentum in British Columbia's forests, people increasingly want to know "where are the biggest, tallest, oldest trees?"

The map above, compiled by Craig Williams, shows the locations of many trees on British Columbia's Big Tree Registry, as well as other notable trees.

One of the trees on the map is the Red Creek Fir near Port Renfrew, Vancouver Island. This monument to the primal forest of old is the largest Douglas-fir in the world. It has an estimated wood volume of 349 cubic meters.

BC's registry of big trees has the ambitious task of recording the top 10 largest and tallest known trees of each of the province's 50 plus native species.

But listed trees are only the known champions. It is probable that larger trees exist in nooks and crannies of little visited, remote locations in the BC wilderness, or possibly even in your own urban neighbourhood or park area.

BC's tree registry depends on the public to find and nominate trees for inclusion in the list of notable specimens.  Although you will see the names of professional tree hunters like Robert Van Pelt on BC's registry, most trees have been nominated by interested amateurs.

Sooke's old school tree hunter, Maywell Whickheim, had the distinction of adding Canada's largest tree, the Cheewhat Cedar, to the registry. He has hinted that an even larger Western red-cedar exists somewhere in the green, dripping, rain forest of southern Vancouver Island.

He is not saying where the tree is, leaving that to present and future big tree hunters looking for a record-breaker.

It is hard to imagine a cedar larger than the mighty Cheewhat tree (which can be found in a remote part of Pacific Rim National Park, east of Cheewhat Lake).

Cheewhat Cedar, Pacific Rim Nat. Park, largest Western red cedar in BC
Largest tree in Canada

This champion is a girthy 18.34 m (60 ft) in circumference, 55.5 m (182 ft) in height, with a crown spread of 15.60 m (51 ft), 917 American Forestry Association points, and a wood volume of 449 sq m.

You can zoom in on the Cheewhat Cedar, and other champions from the BC Big Tree Registry, on the map above. Click on the tree icons for more information on type of tree, its location, and more.

You can also click on the link under the map to visit the original that has additional handy features. Our 'Visit Them' page also has more information on the locations of some of Vancouver Island's champion trees.

The Carmanah Giant is BC's tallest Sitka spruce, 95 m (313 ft) tall
Carmanah/Walbran Provincial Park

You may even develop an interest in becoming a big tree hunter yourself, and adding some champions to the provincial registry. That is what Randy Stoltmann did, and he ended up saving a bunch of them, too, like the amazing Sitka spruce of Carmanah/Walbran Provincial Park. Many of BC's champion trees, like Port Renfrew's Red Creek Fir, still have no official protected status.

Randy's name appears in the Big Tree Registry more times than any other, the result of a short (he died in a wilderness accident in 1994), but serious period of exploration in BC's exceptional forests.

Nominations to the registry are always welcome, and can be submitted on the UBC Forestry website.

Big Leaf Maple Comes By Name Honestly

Large Big leaf maple, San Juan Bridge Forestry Service Campground

The largest known Big leaf maple in the province of BC grows on the lower mainland in Vancouver's city-center Stanley Park. The big-leafed big tree is 10.70 m/35 ft in circumference, 29 m/95 ft in height, with a crown spread of 19.5 m/64 ft, and 533 AFA points. Stanley Park has champion maples galore with 5 more on the list of BC's 10 largest Big leaf maples.

That's not to say that Vancouver Island doesn't have some large maples of its own, like the epiphyte-draped tree shown above. This tree is in the same area as the more famous San Juan Spruce, the largest spruce tree in Canada. The Big leaf maple is a short distance away, dominating the center of the campground, and looking like something out of a Tolkien tale.

Big leaf maple leaves/seeds

The Big leaf maple (Acer macrophyllum), is the largest maple in Canada, and the largest deciduous tree in the coastal forest. This tree lives up to its name and produces giant leaves as large as a medium pizza.

A favourite fall activity on the coast is getting out into the forest to see who can collect the largest leaf. Not surprisingly, the winner is usually found in Vancouver.

The largest maple leaf currently on record measured 53 cm (20.86 in) wide and 52.2 cm (20.55 in) long and was discovered by Vikas Tanwar and family in Richmond, British Columbia, Canada, on 14 December 2010. 

Big Leaf Maple Facts

• grows up to 40 m tall, with leaves possibly up to 60 cm wide
• in forest has narrow crown with single branch free trunk and small narrow crown
• in open trunk branches low down into many branch trunks growing into a large crown
• restricted to southwest corner of BC low to mid-elevations
• like gravely moist soil as beside rivers and lakes
• grows in mixed forests
• older trees are draped in mosses, ferns and lichens because the bark is rich in nutrients and moisture
• the tree will extend roots up from the branches into the gathering moist material resting on them
• older trees are notorious for dropping large limbs

Victoria Region's Heritage Grove Trees Rival B.C.'s Biggest, Tallest

   Fattest tree in Heritage Grove, Francis/King Park, Diameter: 3 metres (9.9 ft)

Like a lot of people, I am driving much less than I used to. I don't get out into the back country like I used to before a tank of gas required a small loan. That makes local tree sites like Francis/King Regional Park all the more appreciated.


This beautifully forested park, one of my favourites, is home to a grove of some of the most impressive old growth Douglas-fir in the region, rivaling those of the more well known Cathedral Grove trees. You may not hear as much about it, but this humble grove of giants contains some notable specimens.

Fattest tree has little taper

Francis/King Park's Heritage Grove is close to town and easy to access (not wheelchair accessible). Once in the forest you will find many connecting trails, some without signage. Consulting the park map is essential.



 
To experience the majesty of Heritage Grove, walk directly from the parking lot down the driveway to Munn Road and carefully cross the road. Turn right onto the horse trail in front of the gate, and walk for a couple of minutes until you come to the next gate. Pass through it, and you are not far from some of the oldest and most impressive known Douglas-fir on Vancouver Island.

Crown far above

Just before the trail descends down a slope and crosses a small seasonal creek, you will find, on the right, the thickest Douglas-fir in the grove. This tree measures an impressive 3 metres (9.9 ft) in diameter. It has a circumference of 9.45 metres (31 ft), and is the 13th largest known Douglas-fir in British Columbia according to the Big Tree Registry.


The fat trunk rises, limb-free and with little taper, to the crown of twisted, lichen-covered branches topping out at 41 metres (135 ft) in height.

Looking across creek to tallest tree
in Heritage Grove

Continue hiking past the creek and you will find the tallest Douglas-fir in the Heritage Grove at the Centennial Trail junction. The ancient giant measures 74.7 metres (245 ft) and is over 500 years old.






Not only is this the tallest Douglas-fir in the Victoria region, its great height makes it the 5th tallest known Douglas-fir in British Columbia, slightly taller than the Red Creek Fir (73.80 m).

Tallest tree in Heritage Grove, 74.7 metres (245 ft)

Thanks to Thomas Francis generously donating this land, these impressive trees, and others in the park, provide a coastal douglas-fir forest experience close to the city, and unique in the province.

Getting There 


Follow the Trans-Canada Highway from Victoria, and take the Helmcken Road exit. Turn left on Burnside Road West, then right on Prospect Lake Road. Turn left on Munn Road, which leads to the park entrance on the right. Allow approximately 20 minutes driving time from Victoria.

Click to enlarge park map

Heritage grove is just across the road from the parking lot. Enjoy!

Vancouver Island Home To Some Of BC's Tallest, Largest, Oldest Trees

Champion Douglas Fir: The Red Creek Fir, Near Port Renfrew, BC

"Tree measuring helps conservation because public support for tree preservation is fueled by the appreciation of champion trees. In an effort to save the best stands of trees, we look for the largest specimens." - Arthur Lee Jacobson

British Columbia's coastal forests are known for growing some of the world's tallest, largest, and oldest trees (see the 'gnarliest' tree here). Vancouver Island is home to some of BC's record-breaking trees, including all of the top Western red cedars and Garry oaks. From dry, rocky meadows dotted with Arbutus in the south, to the wet west coast Sitka spruce, to the east coast Douglas fir belt, many significant trees are to be found here.

It used to be that big tree study was the sole domain of scientists, and a handful of amateur dendrologists that enjoyed crashing through near-impenetrable bush looking for record-breakers. Recent decades have seen increasing interest in trees in general, and record breaking ones in particular. As large, old trees continue to be consumed people are taking notice.

The Internet has helped spread the word. Check out this website that features notable trees from around the world. It was on the net that I accessed British Columbia's repository of provincial champion trees. The BC Big Tree Registry, started by Randy Stoltman in 1986, lists the 10 largest specimens of 40 native tree species.

As I looked at the registry I noticed that there are still many blank spaces, and undoubtedly larger trees exist waiting undiscovered. So get out the measuring implements and set off on a big tree excursion of your own. Record breakers are out there to be found. Anyone can nominate a tree for inclusion.

I have shown the top 3 trees for several common native species from the BC Big Tree Registry (click on the table for a larger image). Measurements include an AFA rating number. The American Forestry Association considers girth, height, and crown spread when it establishes this rating number for champion trees. The methods for calculating the AFA number for a tree can be found here.

Western red cedar







All of the Western red cedar in the Big Tree Registry reside on Vancouver Island. The cool, wet climate here favours these long-lived giants. The registry's shaggy cedar champion, the "Cheewhat Lake Cedar" is not only Canada's largest tree (by volume), but more than likely its oldest as well, possibly up to 2000 years old.


Spruce





Other notable champion Sitka spruce include the Carmanah Giant, Canada's tallest known tree at 96m/315ft. Found in Carmanah/Walbran Provincial Park, this pillar of wood is 5th on the list with 703 AFA points. 6th on the list is the spruce found at San Juan Bridge picnic area near Port Renfrew. If ordered by circumference this hefty contender would bounce the Carmanah Giant out of 5th place.

Douglas fir







The champion Douglas fir, the Red Creek Fir, stands above all its neighbours not far from Port Renfrew. Also on the list of champion Douglas firs are trees at Cathedral Grove near Port Alberni, and Francis King Regional Park near Victoria. The tallest Douglas fir in the registry is in the Coquitlam watershed that tops out at 94m/310ft. It has an eighth place standing with 643 AFA points.


Hemlock





Most of Vancouver Island is in the coastal hemlock zone, so it is fitting that the 2nd and 3rd place champion trees are here. Quisitis Point is in Pacific Rim National Park, and Cous Creek is near Port Alberni.

Arbutus (Pacific Madrone)







The third largest Arbutus on the registry shows that not all champion trees are in the deep, dark, dripping forest. This champion is in a developed area, on the Canadian Forces Base in Esquimalt. Adding to this distinction is its great girth - it has the largest recorded circumference of any known Arbutus.

Pacific yew






The number 2 Pacific yew, the champion with the greatest circumference, resides in the Muir Creek watershed west of the town of Sooke. This unprotected ancient forest includes old trees in an undisturbed setting, a salmon-bearing creek, and a host of unique plants and animals making it an ideal location for conservation.

World's Largest Known Douglas Fir In Danger?

The Victoria Times Colonist reported troubling activity around the world's largest known Douglas fir, back in January. Close to the Red Creek Fir, east of Port Renfrew, were clear markings outlining a cut block. The RCF is a BC Big Tree Registry Champion.



The same article mentioned the increased logging that south west Vancouver Island has seen over the past few months, reigniting old battles over how our forest lands should be used.



After being largely abandoned by both logging companies carving out lucrative real estate divisions, and governments that promote the cutting of the depressingly tiny remains of the old growth, activity in the forest seems to be stepping up.


Red Creek Fir: http://82.94.219.20/~jpa/tall%20trees.htm




This time, though, it is without jobs in the forest or the mills.
The forestry sector in BC saw over 20 000 jobs and 60 mills disappear over the past decade. Now, thanks to whole log exports, trees are disappearing, too.



The Colonist reported again that the Red Creek Fir area was showing signs of logging preparation. The champion Douglas fir is not the only large, ancient tree in the surrounding forest. Nearby are some very large, old Western red cedars.


As I posted here, Champion Trees on BC's Big Tree Registry have no real protection beyond their familiarity to local people. A champion specimen could conceivably be cut down by a logging company without repercussion. That scenario is highly unlikely... I hope. There is a fear, though, that if they log the area around the Red Creek Fir the tree will be more susceptible to the wind.


Forest edges bordering clear cuts experience blow down. That fact puts the 1000 year old RCF at risk of toppling and becoming a 74 m/242 ft. nurse log. That is, of course, any wild tree's destiny, but humans have a way of dramatically hastening that process.


The tree farms that have replaced the old growth ecosystem will be allowed to live for less than 100 years before they are harvested. For a Douglas fir, this is about 1/10th of their natural lifetime. What about wildlife that requires trees older than 250 years old? The trees, unfortunately, are not the only things disappearing.

Sunriver development seen from park

I was recently hiking in the Sunriver Parks area of Sooke, and witnessed for myself a very graphic example of blow down as a result of removing the protection of surrounding forest. Development of this area began with removing all of the trees over a large area. A small strip was left beside the Sooke River. Here there are a few large, old trees struggling to survive. It is a mix of Douglas fir, Hemlock, Western red cedar, and the occasional Sitka spruce. With nothing but houses across the street these trees are very susceptible to wind storms.

Area of blow down in park

The storm of 2006 took out many trees here and everywhere along the coast. Before long many of the trees on the upper portion of this little park will be lost to storms. Already, many of the oldest trees have been topped, and the number of trees down increases each year.

Old Douglas fir in park

Could this be the fate of the Red Creek Fir, 1000 year old Champion?
Forests Ministry spokeswoman Vivian Thomas said there are no immediate plans to harvest in the Red Creek fir area. She also said that the "tree itself is part of a public recreation site and it and the surrounding area is protected from logging."

But Ken Wu points out that it is obvious that logging will be taking place here in the future, that falling boundaries are within a tree-length of the RCF, and that the Ministry dissolves public recreation sites all the time as part of its work in the forest.

The area should be protected as a park, perhaps as an extension of Pacific Rim National Park (as proposed by MP Keith Martin), and promoted to boost tourism in the area while sharing our global treasure - some of the biggest trees on the planet.

Trees like this, increasingly rare as they continue to fall to the chain saw, are worth much more standing than cut down. Let your elected representatives know you care about our trees and forests. Politicians need to get the message, and the sooner the better. Without us they will liquidate everything.

B.C.'s Biggest Trees Not Protected

British Columbia holds record breaking trees, both in the books, and out in the forest waiting to be discovered. In order to increase awareness and protection of these tree Titans and old growth areas, Randy Stoltmann single-handedly started B.C.'s Big Tree Registry in the 1980's.

Modeled after registries in eastern Canada and the U.S., it has grown from just 18 trees of 13 species, to 190 trees of 37 species in 2006. With Stoltmann's death in 1994 the Big Tree Registry passed through a variety of homes, and now is hosted by the provincial government in the Ministry of Forests and Range.

The B.C. Big Tree Registry records the 10 biggest trees for each species, but affords the outstanding listed trees no protection. The Victoria chapter of the Western Canada Wilderness Committee is recommending that the registry list the 100 biggest trees of each species, as well as legislating protection for them.

It seems unlikely that someone would cut down a record-breaking tree, and that is probably what Forests Minister Pat Bell meant when he said that big trees on the registry are not usually harvested. He added that he is not contemplating any changes to the registry or to old growth logging practices in the province.

Robert Van Pelt, author of Forest Giants of the Pacific Coast, insists that ancient giants still exist in little explored areas of our province. Particularily, he fingers Vancouver Island as a potential source of record-breaking sized trees yet to be found. Record-breakers usually gain some notoriety (the registries intended purpose) that gives them unofficial protection-like status. These valuable resources deserve full protection.

And what of Van Pelt's potential record-breaking trees yet to be discovered? Will we ever know about them, let alone protect them, before they become big stumps? WCWC has ample evidence that trees exactly like the ones we worship in our parks are being logged. Is there a record-breaking stump out there?


Let's protect these magnificent trees and remaining ancient groves. Let's do it for all those forward-thinking timber workers that have identified significant trees and groves in the forest and saved them. Or for the Red-backed vole that lives its life in single giant Douglas firs, like the Red Creek Fir (itself a Big Tree Registry champion). Let's do it for Randy Stoltmann.