Mystery Tree

There are many fantastical things in an old forest. As evidence of this, a Vancouver Island Big Trees blog reader sent two photographs showing trees in the Victoria area. 

Their branching pattern looks more like calligraphy than anything. They dance and swing in a celebration of the temperate rainforest, one of the most productive ecosystems on the planet. But who are the dancers? 

"What kind of trees are these?" the reader asked. 

T

I have a species in mind, but am wondering what readers think. What kind of tree in the coastal forest has such a bold branching pattern? Can you solve this mystery?

You can record your educated guess in the comment section below. Or just enjoy these beautiful photos of the magical calligraphy of old, undisturbed forests. What a joy to see their dance, and hear their story.

Note: If I remember correctly, these trees were photographed in Francis King Regional Park.

Grand Fir Trail - Francis/King Regional Park

Francis/King's Grand Fir Trail on a winter day

In Vancouver Island's temperate rain forest there are a number of species of trees that can grow very large and tall. The Grand fir (Abies grandis) is one such tree. Along with scattered Western red-cedar, Grand fir can be found with its companion tree, the Douglas-fir, in the dryer forests of eastern Vancouver Island. Francis/King Regional Park, 20 minutes from downtown Victoria, BC, is one such place.

The genus Abies includes 48 or more species of firs. Grand fir are the tallest species, and some of the loftiest can be found on Vancouver Island. Historically these trees grew to 90 meters (295 ft) (Tudge, 2006), with trunks up to 2-4 meters (6-12 ft) in diameter. They are the shortest-lived of all the conifers in the coastal rain forest, living for 'only' about 250 years, and up to 500 years in extreme cases.

What the Grand fir lacks in longevity it makes up for in rapid growth. In some settings, such as open areas along rivers, it is the fastest growing tree in the forest (1.2m/4ft per yr). Grand fir like all the other firs, grows in a classic conic 'Christmas tree' shape. They have thin, grey plate-like bark when older, and are climax trees in the forest.

Grand fir in the Upper Chilliwack River Ecological Reserve

Grand fir foilage smells like
citrus when crushed

The tallest known Grand fir, listed in British Columbia's Big Tree Registry, is 75 m (247 ft) tall. It is growing in Ecological Reserve #98 of the Upper Chilliwack River on the mainland near Vancouver.

Although none of the Abies grandis along Francis/King Park's Grand Fir Trail are record breakers, there are still some impressive neck-straining specimens.

A route along this beautiful, fern-covered hike takes the tree enthusiast through a rain forest setting that feels far from civilization. It is green and grey, rainy and dripping, misty and wonderful. This is a special zone that contains some of the biggest trees in the region.

The best way to start the hike is to carefully cross Munn Road and descend into the impressive Heritage Grove. Here there are 500 year old massive Douglas-firs, one that tops 75 meters (245 ft), and another with an arm-stretching 9.5 meter (31 ft) circumference.

Ancient Douglas-fir along the trail with debris pile building up around it

There are several routes that one can take, so consult with the park map before you start your hike. Grand Fir Trail creates a pleasant and level loop that roughly parallels Munn Road on either side. There is signage along the way to assist with route-finding.

Watch for the grey-barked Grand fir trees as you hike. They are mostly smaller than the larger Douglas-fir that they share the forest with, although a couple are massive. Douglas-fir bark is much more deeply furrowed, and is darker in colour.

Along with the old growth trees you will also experience the variety of life that is part of this forest ecosystem. Here you can discover Pacific tree frogs, Garter snakes, Great Horned Owls, Steller's Jays and Winter Wrens, as well as plants such as Shooting star and White fawn lily, Indian plum, Oregon grape, and Salal. Other trees in this forest include Big leaf maple, Garry oak, Arbutus, Red alder, and Western red-cedar.

This Grand fir in Francis/King Regional Park is, well, rather grand

Getting There

To get to Francis/King Park follow the Trans-Canada Highway from Victoria, and take the Helmcken Road exit. Turn left on Burnside Road West, then right on Prospect Lake Road. Turn left on Munn Road, which leads to the park entrance on the right. Allow approximately 20 minutes driving time from Victoria.

The park has parking, wheelchair accessible Elsie King Trail, toilets, Nature House, picnic tables, and giant trees. Enjoy.

There is plenty of hiking to do in the park - Heritage Grove has the biggest Douglas-fir
while Grand Fir Trail passes by some of the tallest, largest Grand Fir.

Victoria Region's Heritage Grove Trees Rival B.C.'s Biggest, Tallest

   Fattest tree in Heritage Grove, Francis/King Park, Diameter: 3 metres (9.9 ft)

Like a lot of people, I am driving much less than I used to. I don't get out into the back country like I used to before a tank of gas required a small loan. That makes local tree sites like Francis/King Regional Park all the more appreciated.


This beautifully forested park, one of my favourites, is home to a grove of some of the most impressive old growth Douglas-fir in the region, rivaling those of the more well known Cathedral Grove trees. You may not hear as much about it, but this humble grove of giants contains some notable specimens.

Fattest tree has little taper

Francis/King Park's Heritage Grove is close to town and easy to access (not wheelchair accessible). Once in the forest you will find many connecting trails, some without signage. Consulting the park map is essential.



 
To experience the majesty of Heritage Grove, walk directly from the parking lot down the driveway to Munn Road and carefully cross the road. Turn right onto the horse trail in front of the gate, and walk for a couple of minutes until you come to the next gate. Pass through it, and you are not far from some of the oldest and most impressive known Douglas-fir on Vancouver Island.

Crown far above

Just before the trail descends down a slope and crosses a small seasonal creek, you will find, on the right, the thickest Douglas-fir in the grove. This tree measures an impressive 3 metres (9.9 ft) in diameter. It has a circumference of 9.45 metres (31 ft), and is the 13th largest known Douglas-fir in British Columbia according to the Big Tree Registry.


The fat trunk rises, limb-free and with little taper, to the crown of twisted, lichen-covered branches topping out at 41 metres (135 ft) in height.

Looking across creek to tallest tree
in Heritage Grove

Continue hiking past the creek and you will find the tallest Douglas-fir in the Heritage Grove at the Centennial Trail junction. The ancient giant measures 74.7 metres (245 ft) and is over 500 years old.






Not only is this the tallest Douglas-fir in the Victoria region, its great height makes it the 5th tallest known Douglas-fir in British Columbia, slightly taller than the Red Creek Fir (73.80 m).

Tallest tree in Heritage Grove, 74.7 metres (245 ft)

Thanks to Thomas Francis generously donating this land, these impressive trees, and others in the park, provide a coastal douglas-fir forest experience close to the city, and unique in the province.

Getting There 


Follow the Trans-Canada Highway from Victoria, and take the Helmcken Road exit. Turn left on Burnside Road West, then right on Prospect Lake Road. Turn left on Munn Road, which leads to the park entrance on the right. Allow approximately 20 minutes driving time from Victoria.

Click to enlarge park map

Heritage grove is just across the road from the parking lot. Enjoy!

Hollowed Cedars Often Still Living

This large, partially hollow cedar in Francis/King Park is still living

What do Pacific Rim National Park and Victoria area's Francis/King Regional Park have in common? Both are listed in Randy Stoltmann's Hiking Guide To The Big Trees of Southwest British Columbia. The Heritage Grove in Francis/King Park hosts some of the largest trees in the greater Victoria region. Mixed in among them, is a huge, hollowed out Western red-cedar.


Western red-cedar are long lived trees of the coastal forest that can grow to monumental proportions. Older cedars are prone to rotting in the center, a fact taken advantage of in the past by First Nation hunters looking for shelter in the forest. Sometimes fire was used to increase the hollow area.

Tree shows evidence of burning, possibly from a fire in the 1950s

Heartwood-dead, outer parts-living
(click image to enlarge)

The heartwood of a tree is composed of dead cells, and provides structural support. Although a hollow cedar may be more prone to falling, missing the center does not hinder the outer, living parts of the tree.

As long as the moss-covered living wood touches
the ground, this cedar can continue living

The hollow cedar here still has a coating of living bark and wood right down to the ground where roots spread out in all directions. This connection to the earth sustains the small still-growing crown at the top of the tree.





Sometimes old cedar trees with rotted heartwood can start on fire. One recent cedar fire near Sooke was deemed human caused, and probably smoldered for days before being noticed by a worker that heard crackling and smelled smoke.

Large hollow cedar fire near Sooke is extinguished by a firefighter.
Benjamin Yong photo

The hollow cedar has a living canopy high above

Western red-cedars are special trees in the coastal rain forest, and for me they most represent the watery environments they like to grow in. Their branches, bark, and roots all seem to reflect water in the wavy ways that they grow.





You can see the elements of the forest flowing through these amazing trees, considered sacred by many. Living up to thousands of years in exceptional cases, these trees are true survivors.

Moss, Mushrooms, And Massive Trees

This mossy mushroom patch was on the shake roof of a gazebo. The photograph was taken at Francis King Regional Park, Saanich B.C., on the Elsie King Trail. The 750m accessible trail makes a beautiful loop through the tall trees.

Across the road reside some of the largest Douglas fir in the region, one of which is listed as the 13th largest in BC. Bring your camera.

Francis/King Regional Park: Trees and Trails

One of the moss-covered, deeply fissured, centuries old Douglas firs
in the Heritage Grove of Francis/King Park.

Francis/King Regional Park is a very accessible and beautiful park in Saanich, BC. At about 200 acres, it sits just north of the Trans Canada highway, and preserves some of the biggest and tallest Douglas fir trees in the Victoria area.


A few of these sky-scraping giants are upwards of 500 years old. As they are protected within the park, they could live another 500 to 1000 years. The park is a welcome natural landscape in an area that is increasingly under pressure from development.


This sanctuary is ideal for all levels of mobility and fitness, and for all ages. Children will love the nature center, and parents can enjoy a stroller-friendly interpretive loop trail that begins and finishes right by the parking lot and nature house.








There are 11 kilometers of trails running through the park, ranging from a 750 m wheelchair accessible trail, to rough single track trails through the forest many kilometers in length.


This regional park also offers a nature center, pit toilets and a picnicking area.











Francis/King Regional Park borders on Thetis Lake Regional Park to the west (1600 acres of lake, swamp, and woodland landscape), and Mill Hill Regional Park to the southwest.




An eager hiker could link up longer hikes that take in a combination of all the parks. Wet swampy areas harbour big Western red cedars, and dryer rocky areas have beautiful groves of threatened Garry oaks and rare wildflowers.








The biggest trees are in the Heritage Grove of Francis/King. This magnificent grove is on the opposite side of Munn Road from the parking lot, and is well worth the short 5 min hike. Signage at the parking lot area will help you find this grove of survivors.







The thick trunks of these big trees are massive (3 m/10 ft), as is their height (75 m/245 ft.). From some of the trails in the park you can see the tops of the tallest trees in Heritage Grove emerging from the surrounding canopy, revealing their location.




As you cross Munn Road and head into the forest and toward Heritage Grove, you descend into darkness, even on a sunny day. The canopy overhead gathers up much of the sunlight leaving the open forest floor sparse with vegetation.


Look up through the gnarled branches of these old timers, and see the light breaking through almost 300 feet up. These trees were hundreds of years old when Europeans first gathered on the shores of this land. That they still stand today in all their woody glory is somewhat of a minor miracle, and we have two nature enthusiasts to thank.


James Francis and Freeman King stepped forward years ago and donated the lands that they loved so deeply so that we could enjoy them now. Their forward thinking ways have ensured that visitors will be able to enjoy this spectacular natural area for generations to come.


Directions to Francis/King Regional Park

Follow the Trans-Canada Highway from Victoria, and take the Helmcken Road exit. Turn left on Burnside Road West, then right on Prospect Lake Road. Turn left on Munn Road, which leads to the park entrance on the right. About 20 minutes driving time from Victoria.





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