Royal Roads Old Growth Forest - Metchosin Road Entrance

A wide path runs through Royal Roads forest parallel to Metchosin Road

If you are in the Victoria area and feel like immersing yourself in an old growth forest, but don't want a long drive, the 565 acre forest on the Royal Roads University grounds in Colwood is a good option. This urban forest contains 250 year old trees some of which are the largest in the area.

Development one side of road, ancient forest on the other

Hatley Forest, as it is also referred to, contains trees listed in the Big Tree Registry of British Columbia.
The province's 10th largest Douglas-fir can be accessed via the 15 kilometers of trails that wind through this rare patch of intact dry coastal Douglas-fir habitat.

There are many trails through the trees

The "Magna Carta" tree, as some call it, measures 8.55 m (28 ft) in circumference and 73.5 m (241 ft) in height.

Wrapping around Royal Road's Magna Carta Tree, the largest on the property
and one of the largest in BC

Also to be found here is the province's 5th largest Grand fir, which measures 4.6 m (15.1 ft) in circumference and 64.6 m (212 ft) in height.

Stump of a 60 meter plus Douglas-fir cut in the park.
Bark is fire resistant and 20 - 30 cm thick

"Nearly every type of old-growth Douglas-fir forest on British Columbia's dry coastal plain is now rare or endangered." 

- British Columbia Ministry of Environment, Lands and Parks

"One study estimated that only one-half of one percent (about 1100 hectare) of the low coastal plain is covered by relatively undisturbed old forests. This is far below what scientists consider to be he minimum area required for the continued survival of these forest types." 

- British Columbia Ministry of Environment, Lands and Parks publication 

- "Coastal Douglas-fir Ecosystems"

Trunk of an ancient, fire-scarred Douglas-fir

The federal government bought this property in 1940 from the Dunsmuir estate. It is now Canada's largest historical site.

It is also one of the largest old growth forests remaining in the dry coastal Douglas-fir ecozone. All just a few minutes from downtown Victoria.

View Royal Roads Old Growth Forest - Metchosin Road Entrance in a larger map

Liberating Trees From English Ivy

Old Douglas-fir with English Ivy infestation

"After habitat loss, biological invasion constitutes the greatest threat to biodiversity." - Jeffrey A. McNeely, Scientist

The first independent European to settle among the giant trees on Vancouver Island was probably also the first person to introduce an invasive species to the area. It was 1849 when Captain Walter Grant occupied land and planted the first Scotch Broom (Cytisus scoparius) to remind him of home. Less certain is the first individual to bring another nasty invader, English Ivy (Hedera helix).

The problem with invasive plants is that they show an inclination to spread and overtake native species. English Ivy is a shade-tolerant plant which alters the structure of a forest by strangling trees, and creating clearings in the forest when they fall. This disturbance can in turn create favorable conditions for other invasive plants such as Broom.


A study conducted in 2003 for the Department of National Defense found that English Ivy posed "the biggest threat to the defining ecology of the Royal Roads property." But it also found that the infestations generally were less than in other area forests of similar size, such as University of Victoria’s Mystic Vale, or Sannich’s Mt. Douglas Park.

English ivy reduces the amount of light that falls on the trees and the forest floor. It also affects soil properties, and interrupts normal forest succession processes. The vines, which can get as thick as your wrist, do not penetrate the bark of the tree. However, they do extend small hold-fasts which absorb water from the bark.


Often when I go for hikes I carry gloves and a small saw specifically to liberate trees from English Ivy. Stems should be cut close to the ground and again at breast height. The vines higher up the tree can be left to die, and may be removed after they become brittle. 

Ivy is difficult to pull out of the ground, but if you do so, try not to disturb the soil. Make sure you get as much root out as possible or it may resprout from what is left.

Stem cuttings and roots left behind from pruning may resprout if contact with the soil is made. Take cuttings and roots away for disposal, or leave them in a dry, sunny location. 

Contact with English Ivy may cause an allergic reaction. Wear gloves and full coverage clothing when doing the trees a favour and liberating them from invading, forest-altering English Ivy.

Caring For The Urban Forest

Royal Roads urban forest in Victoria may be N. America's oldest

In recent years we have been increasingly recognizing the importance of trees and forests everywhere, including urban forests. Urban trees provide soul soothing green space amidst the black and greys of the endless pavement and concrete of cities around the world. When we build our cities, whenever possible, we also plant trees - and for very good reasons.

Why Are Urban Forests Valuable?

Trees and forests:

• Conserve energy by shading buildings and paved surfaces
• Filter air, and water-borne pollutants
• Remove atmospheric carbon dioxide, a potent greenhouse gas
• Reduce storm water runoff
• Increase the value of our homes
• Have important psychological benefits; seeing and being around trees makes us feel better
• Urban forests can be managed to provide wood and lumber for art, building, and a sustainable energy source

Studies have found that hospital patients with a view of trees recover faster and with fewer complications than patients without such a view. Considering their importance to us, we should all be urban forest rangers and do what we can to maintain the health of our trees.

Caring For Urban Trees

Urban trees are constantly under threat. Changes in soil depth around trees can harm root systems as it drastically reduces the amount of oxygen and water available. Urban development often includes excavating - digging around established trees can damage fragile root systems, and kill trees.

Basic Care

Tree problems also occur because of over and under watering, improper fertilization, and competition between roots. Over watering causes the soil pore (air) spaces to fill with water and restrict available oxygen. Under watering does not provide sufficient water for proper development. Over fertilization can injure or kill the roots, while under fertilization results in a lack of the minerals essential to maintain a healthy tree.

Competition for water and minerals between tree roots, bushes, grass and flowers can
stress trees. Trees will stress if routine soil preparation for flowers damages tree roots.

Top 10 Urban Forests

Other practices that affect tree health are: deicing salts and other chemicals; wounding through digging and trenching; and adding deep mulch over 13 cm ( 5 inches), concrete, pavement, or compacted soil that restricts water percolation, and suffocates roots.

Herbicide Alert - Imprelis Kills Trees

Another potential problem is the improper application of a herbicide, or using the wrong herbicide (or any herbicide). Poison pusher conglomerate Dupont is in the news lately because of its new herbicide Imprelis. This herbicide was developed to target broad leaf weeds in grass, but it seems to be killing much, much more than that.

Imprelis is killing Spruce, Pine, and other urban conifer trees after the correct application of the herbicide on surrounding lawns. Dupont is being sued by a number of landscapers, towns, golf courses and cemeteries that say that label use of their product has inadvertently killed tens of thousands of trees across America.

Imprelis is so persistent that grass clippings are basically toxic waste for several months after application of the herbicide. Dupont recommends that grass clipping not be composted or sent to the landfill during that period.

We can help our urban forests through proper basic care of our trees. Another way we can help is by pushing for a ban on the cosmetic use of harsh landscaping chemicals in our cities. We need to get our lawns and gardens off chemicals so that not only our urban forests can thrive, but so that all life that is found within them can thrive, naturally.

Happy New Big Tree Year

Driving through the old growth of Royal Roads, Colwood, B.C.

Consider the life of trees.

Aside from the axe, what trees acquire from man is inconsiderable.

What man may acquire from trees is immeasurable.

From their mute forms there flows a poise, in silence;

a lovely sound and motion in response to wind.

What peace comes to those aware of the voice and bearing of trees?

- Cedric Wright

Happy New Year from Vancouver Island Big Trees. May you join us in enjoying, appreciating, and protecting the trees in all their magnificence throughout 2011.

Entering Royal Roads Forest From Wishart Road

Earlier this week my tree hunting partner and I nipped into the Royal Roads old growth forest to check out access gates, trails, and big trees. In spite of driving by this treasury of trees often over the years, we have not thoroughly explored it. But its dark confines and big trees beckoned.

Recent History

The Government of Canada bought the 565 acre Hatley Park (as the area is also known) from the Dunsmuir family in 1940 for $75,000 dollars. It has gone through a variety of uses and is currently being leased by Royal Roads University. The land was designated a National Historic Site in 1995, and is the only area with such a designation in Canada to contain an original old growth forest.



Royal Roads (and adjoining Department of National Defense lands) represent a nice chunk of the last stands of the ancient coastal Douglas-fir forest ecosystem. Such a forest contains Western hemlock and Western red-cedar, in addition to fir. This forest also contains Garry oak, Bigleaf maple, and the easternmost stand of Stika spruce on Vancouver Island.

The B.C. government has listed the coastal Douglas-fir eco-zone as rare and endangered, and after discovering in my research that the 2nd and 3rd largest Douglas-fir trees in the Capital Region District (the largest is in Francis/King Regional Park) are in the Royal Roads forest, I have vowed to give this area more attention, and find those trees.




Into The Forest

After driving along Wishart Road in Colwood we found several entrances to the forest. We chose one at random (across the street from 3122 Wishart Road) and entered the park.

It was a major transition, stepping from the city landscape on one side of the street, and into a towering old growth forest on the other. The city side probably came into existence in the 1970's, judging by the homes. The wild side has been here since the last glaciers retreated 13,000 years ago. Some of the veteran trees have been around for many centuries.




Immediately the city disappeared and we could have been anywhere in the wild lands of Vancouver Island's coastal Douglas-fir forest. Fat trunks of trees tower overhead. The light was a distinctly different quality, filtered through the green canopies of the trees.


Only in a few places did the shafts of sunlight penetrate all the way to the forest floor. It was cooler and we zipped up our light jackets. The smell in the forest was divine. Intoxicating odours revealed growth and decay mixed with the smells of an ocean breeze. Ravens clucked at us from the branches high above.

From this access point trails extend in either direction along the outer perimeter of the forest. We took a wider path straight ahead which took us, after about 10 minutes, to a gravel pit in the middle of the trees. Following the path past the pit took us to another access point on Metchosin Road. We doubled back on the same trail to complete our short hike.



Notable Trees

Along this short route there are many fine Western red-cedar of fairly large proportions. Just inside the gate and to the right a few steps along the path is an impressively large Douglas-fir. Further down the wide path, and off to the left, is another weathered old fir. It shows the scars of a tree that has withstood the centuries of winter storms and summer drought. There is also evidence of logging here, but of a very limited nature.

All along the trail there are smaller side trails, so one could use this entrance to really explore the area. We did not find the biggest Douglas-fir that we were looking for, but we will be back. It is exciting that there is so much more left to explore and discover for the first time.


Getting There

Royal Roads lands are accessed via a variety of gates and service roads. The main entrance is off Sooke Road. Watch for other small gateways along the fence around the perimeter of the park. Drive along Wishart Road to locate many different ways of getting into the forest. We chose the gate across from 3122 Wishart Road. Note: parking is limited along Wishart. The area is well serviced by public transportation, and the Galloping Goose Trail runs by across Sooke Road.


View Royal Roads Forest (from Wishart Road) in a larger map

Big Tree Art

Drawing by Robert Van Pelt

Robert Van Pelt's book Forest Giants of the Pacific Coast is one of my favorite big tree books. The author has a unique passion for trees, and a talent for not only finding record-breakers, but also carefully measuring and accurately rendering them.

His painstaking depictions separate the champion trees from the forest, and each has its own unique and special character. I also like the depiction of the tiny humans at the base of Van Pelt's drawings to give the giants a scale we can relate to. You can see how massive these ancient trees are.

Van Pelt's work inspired us to take a look at some of our own tree-related art.

photo: Linda Hughes, Photons In The Forest

Linda has a knack for taking interesting abstract photos with our point and shoot digital camera. This one was taken in the Royal Roads forest in Colwood. She says it is an accurate depiction of the sense she feels while in the forest and around ancient trees.









This is a pen and ink drawing of a favourite local tree that has been leaning out over Sooke Harbour for a hundred years or more.


 The Leaning Tree, Gregg Koep

Leaning Tree and Hummingbird, Linda Hughes
This is the same tree, also in pen and ink.

Up The Sooke River, Gregg Koep

This pencil sketch depicts the Sooke Hills and the Highway 14 bridge crossing the Sooke River, as seen from the harbour.

Coastal Conifer, Gregg Koep

Yes, I am obsessed with trees - I can't even prepare a meal without being sidetracked by their allure and beauty. This piece almost made itself as I stood at the counter. The two dimensional sculpture is made from: Garbanzo beans for the tree, and dried kidney bean pods for the ground.

Royal Roads, Colwood, B.C. - An Urban Ancient Forest

I have passed by the fat, ancient, and soaring hulks of the Douglas fir trees on the Royal Roads lands at the top of Lagoon Road many times. I overlooked the area, even though I have been aware of it's ecological significance for some time. Perhaps this is because the Royal Roads old growth forest is located in Colwood, an urban area west of Victoria. On one side of the street are large houses, big screen TVs, and hot and cold running water. On the other side, a wild remnant of a forest landscape that has been 99% consumed in only 200 years time.


One rainy day I stopped by to explore this island of ancient wonders. I passed through the gate, swung it closed on creaking hinges, and left suburbia behind. It was a time machine. A few steps down a wide path and I was surrounded, immersed in a land little changed over thousands of years. The car exhaust lingering in my nostrils faded away as I walked under the massive canopies of Douglas fir, Spruce and Hemlock. Thick trunks shot up all around and the sun beamed shafts of light through the mist. It smelled richly of growth and decay. A slug slowly slid across the trail and left its own glistening path.

The 650 acre Royal Roads property (and adjoining DND lands) has one of the last remaining undisturbed old growth Garry Oak/Coastal Douglas-fir habitats on south Vancouver Island. The site has a history of human settlement dating back thousands of years. The Straits Salish people, the Songhees, had a settlement at Esquimalt Lagoon, and evidence such as shell midens by the lagoon, and culturally modified trees in the forest, are a testament to early occupation. They have outstanding land claims to the area to this day.



View Larger Map


Royal Roads University is the current occupant of the site. There are two manicured gardens and a historical building on site as well. But the old growth forest of Royal Roads is by far the most significant aspect of the entire area. Such forests are rare in this undisturbed state, and in this size, anywhere. Never mind driving out to Cathedral Grove. Here you will find trees that are among the top 10 largest in the province. Trees that are many hundreds of years old. The Sitka spruce growing here represent the farthest eastern limit of their habitat on Vancouver Island.


There is pressure to develop this land. Some though, recognizing this ecological jewel, propose protection. Royal Roads and the DND lands are already public meaning that we would not need to buy the land in order to protect it for future generations. What a legacy a park would make. Some are calling it a potential 'Stanley Park' for Victoria and region.

Often old growth forest is synomonous with wilderness, but not in the case of Royal Roads/DND lands. This is one ancient forest you can get to on a city bus. There is access off Sooke Road and at Lagoon Rd. and Heatherbell. There is a small spot to park on the side of Heatherbell. Across the street you will see a gate in the chain link fence. Pass through and leave the city behind.

Don't let the Royal Roads urban location fool you. It's wild in there. Can we make sure it stays that way?