Entering Royal Roads Forest From Wishart Road

Earlier this week my tree hunting partner and I nipped into the Royal Roads old growth forest to check out access gates, trails, and big trees. In spite of driving by this treasury of trees often over the years, we have not thoroughly explored it. But its dark confines and big trees beckoned.

Recent History

The Government of Canada bought the 565 acre Hatley Park (as the area is also known) from the Dunsmuir family in 1940 for $75,000 dollars. It has gone through a variety of uses and is currently being leased by Royal Roads University. The land was designated a National Historic Site in 1995, and is the only area with such a designation in Canada to contain an original old growth forest.



Royal Roads (and adjoining Department of National Defense lands) represent a nice chunk of the last stands of the ancient coastal Douglas-fir forest ecosystem. Such a forest contains Western hemlock and Western red-cedar, in addition to fir. This forest also contains Garry oak, Bigleaf maple, and the easternmost stand of Stika spruce on Vancouver Island.

The B.C. government has listed the coastal Douglas-fir eco-zone as rare and endangered, and after discovering in my research that the 2nd and 3rd largest Douglas-fir trees in the Capital Region District (the largest is in Francis/King Regional Park) are in the Royal Roads forest, I have vowed to give this area more attention, and find those trees.




Into The Forest

After driving along Wishart Road in Colwood we found several entrances to the forest. We chose one at random (across the street from 3122 Wishart Road) and entered the park.

It was a major transition, stepping from the city landscape on one side of the street, and into a towering old growth forest on the other. The city side probably came into existence in the 1970's, judging by the homes. The wild side has been here since the last glaciers retreated 13,000 years ago. Some of the veteran trees have been around for many centuries.




Immediately the city disappeared and we could have been anywhere in the wild lands of Vancouver Island's coastal Douglas-fir forest. Fat trunks of trees tower overhead. The light was a distinctly different quality, filtered through the green canopies of the trees.


Only in a few places did the shafts of sunlight penetrate all the way to the forest floor. It was cooler and we zipped up our light jackets. The smell in the forest was divine. Intoxicating odours revealed growth and decay mixed with the smells of an ocean breeze. Ravens clucked at us from the branches high above.

From this access point trails extend in either direction along the outer perimeter of the forest. We took a wider path straight ahead which took us, after about 10 minutes, to a gravel pit in the middle of the trees. Following the path past the pit took us to another access point on Metchosin Road. We doubled back on the same trail to complete our short hike.



Notable Trees

Along this short route there are many fine Western red-cedar of fairly large proportions. Just inside the gate and to the right a few steps along the path is an impressively large Douglas-fir. Further down the wide path, and off to the left, is another weathered old fir. It shows the scars of a tree that has withstood the centuries of winter storms and summer drought. There is also evidence of logging here, but of a very limited nature.

All along the trail there are smaller side trails, so one could use this entrance to really explore the area. We did not find the biggest Douglas-fir that we were looking for, but we will be back. It is exciting that there is so much more left to explore and discover for the first time.


Getting There

Royal Roads lands are accessed via a variety of gates and service roads. The main entrance is off Sooke Road. Watch for other small gateways along the fence around the perimeter of the park. Drive along Wishart Road to locate many different ways of getting into the forest. We chose the gate across from 3122 Wishart Road. Note: parking is limited along Wishart. The area is well serviced by public transportation, and the Galloping Goose Trail runs by across Sooke Road.


View Royal Roads Forest (from Wishart Road) in a larger map

Langford's Humpback Road Heritage Trees Outgrowing Their Home: culling will take place

Not many urban streets sport the number and concentration of huge magnificent trees as Humpback Road in Langford. Here you can drive down the street and feel like you are at the bottom of a canyon of green, or passing through a row of giant columns leading to a monumental building. As far as urban big trees go, these are some of my favourites.

This group of trees has a long history that began in 1886 when John Phair, the owner of the Goldstream Hotel from 1886 to 1909, planted them for the enjoyment of future guests.

In the early 1900s the big trees of the Goldstream Park area were a favourite weekend stomping ground for the upper crust of Victoria. The elite from the city would retreat to the forest after journeying by train on the Esquimalt & Nanaimo railway to Goldstream station. After getting off the train people would either stroll along a boardwalk, or take a horse and buggy through the rows of trees to the hotel.

These trees are designated a Heritage Group, and are therefore provided protection due to their size, age, and social history. Initially there were 89 trees in the group, but over the years many of the trees have had to be culled for a variety of reasons.

It is sad that this is so, but it is a fact that enormous trees and urban areas can be a dangerous mix. In April of this year a resident that lives under some of these giants wrote to Langford city council asking that something be done about the rows of huge, hulking heritage trees. Their letter states in part:

"Last Friday, April 2nd, we had a terrific windstorm; with wind-gusts approaching 110 kmh. The result of that was a rather frightening experience for ALL the residents that live in the part of Humpback with the old but gigantic trees lining this portion of the road. Once again, for the umpteenth time, a powerful hail of pine branches and cones came battering at the homes next to the trees. THIS time however, it was a windstorm of unusual power."

The letter goes on to ask that the trees be limbed and topped, but it seems that the preferred solution is to remove all the trees as soon as possible. I know from personal experience that riding out a shrieking west coast gale under giant trees can be a scary proposition. Never mind the unbelievable noise, huge branches and dead wood can fall, and whole trees toppling over is quite common.

On July 26, 2010 a Staff Report to the Parks, Recreation, Culture and Beautification Committee was issued. It gave some background information about these trees, and made several recommendations for dealing with them. The following information is quoted from the report.

Background

"For many years the City of Langford has worked to retain the heritage trees along the public Road ROW on Humpback Road. In 1995 under a provision of the Local Government Act these trees were designated as "Significant Trees" by City Council. All proposed work to these trees must be authorized by City Council.

Over the years many of the trees have been removed due to decline or for public safety. Since 1995, 19 trees have been removed, the last two removals taking place in 2006. Fifty six designated significant trees now remain.

In April of this year a resident, who lives adjacent to the trees, wrote to Mayor Young expressing concerns about the trees. In response the Parks Department engaged a consulting arborist to carry out the yearly assessment of the trees.

Again this year consulting arborist Tom Talbot of Talbot MacKenzie and Associates carried out the assessments. Some additional Resistograph testing was done to assess some trees for potential areas of internal decay."


Commentary

"This year's Arborist Report dated June 17th, 2010 recommends the immediate removal of two trees (#24 due to decay and #26 an adjacent tree due to exposure by the removal of #24), and removal or monitoring of two additional trees that have existing cracks in the trunks or stems (#41 and #53). Unfortunately six other trees have been identified for removal within the next 5 to 6 years (#3, #4, #5, #18, #19 and #79).


Many of the trees are also recommended for remedial work, removal of hangers, deadwood removal, weight reduction and beneficial pruning."


It should be noted that Langford has legal responsibilities which must be addressed. The city has a duty of care to maintain the trees in such a manner that the public is not harmed by a tree or limb failure. Therefore, the following options were listed in the report."


Options

"That Council direct Staff to engage a qualified tree service to carry out the work as detailed in the Arborist Report Dated June 21st, 2010.

a) Removal of trees #24 and #26.
b) Further that if funding allows trees #41 and #53 (plus # 40) be removed, due to their structural condition and location adjacent to the playground, hydro lines, homes and roadway.
c) All recommended hazard and beneficial pruning work detailed in the Arborist Report.
d) Trees # 3, #4, #5, #18, #19 and #79 identified for removal in the next 5-6 years and all other remaining significant trees are monitored annually for changes in health and structure."

The Goldstream Hotel with the heritage trees towering overhead

It is tough being an urban big tree, and eventually all the giant Douglas-firs along Humpback Road will be gone. In the wild these trees can grow to be older than 1000 years, giving the 124 year old Humpback trees about another 900 years to thrive.

In captivity, though, such trees will outgrow their location rather quickly - say in 1 or 2 hundred years, perhaps much sooner. It is good to see that Langford city council both acknowledges the importance of these beautiful trees, and is committed to doing what it takes to keep them for as long as possible, while doing what it can to protect the people that live and drive along the roadway.

If you are in the area, take a drive through the Humpback Road tree canyon and be amazed at the thick trunks and massive canopies of this group of much loved trees. Enjoy them while they last.

Google Mapping Heritage Trees: Victoria's Albert Ave. Giant Sequoia

The Albert Ave. sequoia is towering over the neighbourhood on the right. Note the sizable native Garry oak on the left side of the street.

Recently I attended a doctor appointment at the Royal Jubilee Hospital, and ended up discovering another of Victoria's amazing Giant sequoia (Sequoiadendron giganteum). Actually my tree hunting partner, Linda, was the one to spot it in our on-going game of 'find the big trees' that we play wherever we go on Vancouver Island.

Now, I have discovered another way of visiting the big trees - at least those that can be seen from roadways. I have been exploring using Google Street View on Google maps to see if I can do some virtual big tree hunting in the greater Victoria district. I started with the Albert Avenue Giant sequoia, and was pleased with the results. See the map below for details.










The ten story tall sequoia grows magnificently beside a large older home half a block east from the hospital. It is on a nice urban street unusual enough to be interesting. This narrow dead end lane is only accessible from Shelbourne Street, and contains not only the sequoia, but also a big native Garry oak.















This heritage tree most likely came to Victoria as a sapling from California around 1900, making it about 110 years old. In that time it has attained great height, and girth. The canopy of feathery needles is supported by graceful reddish-barked limbs as big as tree trunks themselves.

Imagine this tree in 2000 years, three times the height and as wide as the house next to it.




The three tallest Sequoia sempervirens in the world are:

Hyperion	Redwood National Park, California	115.55 m (379 ft)
Helios	Redwood National Park, California	114.34 m (375 ft)
Icarus	Redwood National Park, California	113.11 m (371 ft)

Getting There

The map below shows the location of the Giant sequoia in this post. The area is serviced by public transportation, and is a nice place for a bike ride.

Or you could do a virtual visit to this location by clicking on the link below the map which will open a new, larger map. Then click and drag the tiny person icon on the left down onto Albert Avenue. A window will open that will allow you to manipulate the location and picture in Street View. Good luck on your virtual tree hunting.


View Victoria's Giant sequoia: Albert Avenue in a larger map

Matheson Lake Regional Park

Matheson Lake Regional Park in Metchosin is a forested area that features a cover of newer trees interspersed with old growth. Although the hillsides are mostly covered in younger trees, and there is evidence of old logging activity, this remains a beautiful spot. There are enough ancient holdovers from pre-logging days to keep you cycling or hiking along to find the next one.


Some of the trees in Matheson Lake Park are hundreds of years old. The newer forest has filled in and some second growth trees are getting large, too. If one were into bush whacking many more giant trees can be found hiding up the steep hillsides and screened by surrounding forest. I have read of such trees in obscure places on the Internet, and have tried finding some of them, but to no avail... so far.






The Galloping Goose Trail passes through the park, and is a good way to see the several wide Douglas-firs on both sides. Some have circumferences over 20 feet. There is also a smaller scenic 3.4 km trail that circles Matheson Lake. This trail undulates through thick forest and over steep hillsides and rocky outcrops.

The tree on the right is along the lake shore trail and caught my attention. It looks like someone in the past started to cut it down and changed their mind. It still bears the scar, although it is filling with sap and debris. This Douglas-fir tree is still living, and can be found at the west end of the lake just off the trail.









The Western red-cedar stump above shows more evidence of logging activity in the past. The notches are for springboards that loggers used to elevate themselves above the thickest part of the tree to make cutting easier. Now that the area is protected as a park we can allow the forest to develop unmolested. In a couple of hundred of years it will take on the characteristics of old growth.








There are large cedars along the lake shore trail, as well as Hemlock. At the right time of year you will also find many showy wildflowers gracing the hillsides.









Matheson Lake is stocked with trout and makes for a fun day of paddling and fishing. The lake has a nice pocket beach at the east end, and swimming is popular here. Salamander like to swim in these waters, too. On one visit I saw an endangered Western painted turtle. Watch for these amazing creatures as they group together to share a nap on a floating log.






















Getting There


View Larger Map



Matheson Lake Regional Park is on the border between Sooke and Metchosin. It can be accessed from Rocky Point Rd by turning onto Matheson Lake Park Road and taking it to the end where there is a parking lot with connections to the Galloping Goose Trail as well as the Lakeshore Trail. Matheson Park is connected to Roche Cove Park, and can be accessed from the Roche Cove Parking off Gillespie Road. The Galloping Goose trail passes through Roche Cove Park, and on to Matheson. All side trails are clearly marked. As usual out here, watch for bears and cougars. Make noise as you hike.

Carmanah Rain Forest Canopy Research Station First Of Its Kind

Collecting moss in the Rain Forest Canopy Research Centre, Credit: Bob Herger

A common misconception is that when we cut old growth forests all we are taking is the trees. But when we clear cut forests we are decimating entire ecosystems. Old growth trees and forests provide habitat for thousands of species. Kill the trees and you kill most of the other species, too.

Until 1992 there had not been any systematic study of the northern temperate rain forest canopy - we had no idea of the diversity we were destroying. Then the Western Canada Wilderness Committee set up the first ever rain forest canopy research station in a cluster of 5 Sitka spruce over 60 m tall in the then threatened Carmanah Valley.

Volunteers built rope climbing systems to scale the great heights of the old trees. A variety of platforms at different spots up the trunks were set in place, and rope bridges were strung to connect them all together.

Since then researchers have collected over 3 million insects in this extensive study, and of the species that have been identified, 300 were new to science. This forest contains more biomass per square meter than any other forest on earth. Its richness is reflected in the research that has been done here.

It is evident that many living things require ancient forests that have not been disturbed for hundreds of years. Such a forest has mixed aged trees ranging from seedlings to massive old growth. Standing dead wood, and fallen trees on the ground provide habitat and nutrients for this web of life. But can't this delicate web be maintained in second growth forests that grow after the original forest is gone?

No. Second growth forests do not provide the structure and conditions old growth reliant species require. The Wilderness Committee says,

"The primary problem is that second-growth tree plantations and old-growth forests are very different. Unfortunately, the goal of B.C.’s forest management system is to replace our wild forests with tree farms that are clear cut after 40 to 120 years, long before they acquire old-growth features. Only by slowing down the excessive rate of cut and establishing large protected areas will we ensure that we always have ecologically viable tracts of ancient forests on Vancouver Island."

Some of the creatures that require the massive trees that grow in forests older than two or three hundred years are: spotted owls, salamanders, marbeled murrelets, salmon, bald eagles, many species of insects and spiders, as well as thousands of life forms not yet studied.

The Carmanah Valley Rain Forest Canopy Research Station is providing us with a glimpse into the deep, dark, and unknown forest. This ground-breaking research is showing us that eliminating most of Vancouver Island's forests and replacing them with even-aged tree plantations spells doom for the survival of many species.

No doubt we have already caused the extinction of many creatures that we will never know about. Let's save what is left. Say, "NO" to old growth logging in British Columbia, and around the world. We must ensure that we always have ecologically intact areas of ancient forests for everything that is dependent upon them... including us.

The World’s Oldest Individual Tree

Image: cwsteeds/flickr.

Although Vancouver Island and BC have some ancient trees, they are not the most ancient in the world. Of BC's trees, the Yellow-cedar is the longest living. It can grow for over 2000 years. But there are older trees around, including the world's oldest individual tree, a Great Basin bristlecone pine growing in California.

The twisted tree shown above is a bristlecone pine similar to Methuselah, which is 4800 years old. The location of the Methuselah tree is a closely guarded secret in order to protect this champion tree. It grows slowly in its harsh environment at 10, 000 feet.

Prometheus was even older at 5000 years. It was cut down in 1964.

VIBT Slide Show

I have added a new slide show button under the banner of VIBT. The slide show contains photographs and images used on this blog. I added the slide show to this post for your viewing pleasure. If you run your cursor over the bottom of the frame the controls will pop up. If you wish you can use the arrows to go at your own pace. Enjoy the big trees.

Rare Nanoose Douglas-fir Forest Not Protected In Recent Announcement

View Larger Map

District Lot 33 is crown land in the Nanoose District. It is the large square of forest in the map above.



When I posted here regarding the recent B.C. government announcement of protection for some of Vancouver Island's old growth forests, I was pleased, but sceptical. Often decisions, such as the ones Forests and Range Minister Pat Bell announced July 30th, are made on a political basis rather than on ecosystem management. 64 hectare Nanoose District Lot 33, north of Nanaimo, might be the victim of such a decision.

Lot 33, is a patch of endangered mature coastal Douglas-fir (CDF) forest. The land is crown (public) land, a rarity in the Esquimalt and Nanaimo Railway east coast land grab area. 80% of the CDF forest is on private property, so Lot 33 provides a special opportunity for protection.

The Arrowsmith Parks and Land-Use Council, and forest activists, have been working hard to conserve the special forest on Lot 33. Their pleas seem to have fallen on less than sympathetic ears since the lot has been approved for logging. The Snaw-na-as First Nation is looking to log one quarter of the area to raise about $750,000 much-needed dollars.

The government puts the Nanoose Band in a position where it does not have the financial ability not to log. But intact old forests are worth more than the logs that can be harvested. The government should pay the band $750,000, and protect this forest. Lot 33 represents part of the 1% of CDF forest that is left after industrial logging decimated the old growth starting in the 1940s, and continuing to this very day.



Lot 33 is a prime candidate for protection under the governments CDF conservation plan. Local municipal governments have already voted unanimously to designate Lot 33 for protection under the CDF program. However, Forestry Minister Pat Bell says that we "can't save all the old growth".

Although the B.C. government is beginning to acknowledge the importance of old growth, they refuse to see the importance of ending old growth logging now. They fail to recognize the needs of the citizens of B.C., or the 43% of the province's species that are in danger of disappearing due to habitat destruction.

Bell does recognize the needs of the logging industry, though, and claims they must get the old growth they need.

But what will the logging industry do when all the old growth is gone? What will the Marbled murellets do? Lot 33 is a prime candidate for preservation as an example of a rare, low-level, mature coastal Douglas-fir forest.

Upper Goldstream Trail Old Growth Trees

There are 17 provincial parks within 50 km of British Columbia's capital city, and shady, mossy Goldstream Park is one of them. It occupies the Goldstream River valley 16 km north-west from Victoria. Yet, once immersed in the forest, you are transported back to a time when monumental trees were common. Goldstream is one of the most accessible spots to get up close and personal with Vancouver Island's famous big trees.






Goldstream Park is one of the Capital Region District's most popular parks. Thousands of visitors a year come to see the fall salmon run, and the eagles that gather in the hundreds to prey on their spawned out carcasses.

Others come for the 700 year old trees, and a taste of the grandeur of an ancient forest.





Upper Goldstream Trail is in the campground side of the park, and passes through some of the biggest and oldest trees. This easy 30 minute hike parallels the Goldstream River, and is surrounded by a high density of old growth trees. Huge conifers such as Douglas-fir, Western red-cedar, and Hemlock dot the small valley. Broad-leafed trees such as Big leaf maple, Arbutus, and Black cottonwood are also represented in the park.





It was very hot the day I walked through the park approaching the Upper Goldstream trail head. The trail winds its way up the river valley alongside Goldstream River, which is criss-crossed by huge fallen trees. Large ferns cover the forest floor, and lichens drip from ancient branches. Sunlight penetrates the dark of the forest in brilliant shafts, nurturing the saplings that will eventually replace the old trees.






The temperature dropped several degrees after I entered the forest. All around the forest looked shaggy, drippy and green. Moss and lichen hung everywhere.



Some of these massive trees are 600 - 700 years old. It is an amazing feeling to be surrounded by these sky scraping monuments. The vertical scale is all out of whack.




What is it about these ancient entities that draws us to them? Somehow their stillness, strength, and defiance of temporal boundaries works its magic on us. We are humbled at the base of their wide, wrinkly trunks. We love them, admire them, and are astounded by them.



Increasingly we are able to recognize their irreplaceable importance, too. That someone in the past thought that this forest was worth protecting is a boon to all of us now. The old growth forests we save today will be appreciated and enjoyed by future generations.



Large diameter woody debris lay all around, and enormous standing snags provide feeding stations and bird condos 20 stories tall. In this forest all ages of trees are represented, from seedlings to seniors. It is here that we find the greatest diversity of life - it just does not compare with second growth tree plantations that are all one age of trees, and are sprayed with herbicide to make the fiber farms more 'productive' and profitable.


The Douglas-fir and Western red-cedar are the largest trees along the trail. Along with Hemlock, the hiker will find enough old trees to keep you looking up and astounded.







No proper Vancouver Island old growth trail would be complete without the 'walk through the fallen log' feature, and the Upper Goldstream trail does not disappoint.







Eventually the trail leads to Goldstream River Falls. Cool, fresh water rushes and tumbles down the steep valley. Florescent green moss covers everything, and ferns luxuriate in the wet, humid micro-climate. It is this clean, cold water that keeps the salmon run going after thousands of years.







Upper Goldstream Trail is the most accessible old growth forest closest to Victoria. While in this forest you get the illusion that you are in an ecologically intact area - an area where nature and the forest rule. Alas, though, Goldstream Park is surrounded by development and encroachment continues unabated. This valley is unfortunately much smaller than it initially feels.





Although I didn't see anyone the day I hiked, this trail is heavily used. The forest floor has been trampled by visitors that know not the importance of staying on the designated path. However, it remains an impressive remnant of old forest and gives the visitor a good idea of what it must have been like on the south island before 98% of the Coastal Douglas-fir zone was razed in massive clear cuts.

Need a retreat from the city? Goldstream Provincial Park is a good place to get away from it all, just minutes from downtown. If you squint a bit, and pretend there aren't houses just up over there, you can get lost for a while in this lush, green place.

Getting There

Goldstream Provincial Park is located about 16km from Victoria. To get to the Upper Goldstream Trail head follow Highway 1 (Trans Canada Hwy.) north. Take the Westshore Parkway turnoff to Amy Road, then Sooke Lake Road to Golden Gate Road, which descends into the campground section of the park. There is only pay parking in the park so I park at the top across the street from the pub and walk in.

The entrance to the day use area is further along Highway 1, then turn right at Finlayson Arm Road. There are nice Western red-cedar here, as well as huge Black cottonwoods along the Goldstream River. Note: The access to the park's day use area is along busy Highway 1. Exercise extreme caution when entering and leaving this busy area.

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Extreme Fire Hazard In B.C. Forests

The burning red sunsets that we have been having lately on Vancouver Island are a reminder of fires burning in the interior of the province. Although no fires have been reported on the island, smoke from the mainland has drifted over our skies making for some spectacular evening light shows.

Our temperate rain forest essentially has two seasons - the wet rainy winter season, and the hot dry summer season. During most years the forest dries up over the extended sunny summer. Older trees on the island usually show evidence of fire scars on their bark. In some wetter areas on the coast, forests have avoided large fires for up to two thousand years!

Currently all of Vancouver Island is experiencing an extreme fire hazard, and authorities are reminding everyone that we can help prevent needless fires. A campfire ban has been in effect for a while now, and smoking is being discouraged in the back country.

It is hot and dry out there - perfect for enjoying some camping and hiking in the trees. Please be careful. Our forests are depending on it.