Snow In The Rainforest

No snow at sea level, but accumulations at elevation in the Sooke Hills.

A bit on the ground at Sooke Potholes Park, but not enough for
skiing or snowshoeing.

Heavier snow in the trees on the hilltops.

Conditions are good for revealing individual big trees on the hillside that normally
 blend into the forest and are harder to spot.

The falls on Sooke River are highlighted by a dusting of snow.

Snow In The Big Trees

Snowy Sooke River falls

It is not often that you get to snowshoe at lower elevations on Vancouver Island's south coast. But every once in a while we get a good dump that stays around for a day or two before warmer weather melts it away. I headed up to the end of Sooke River Rd., and Sooke Potholes Regional Park today to take advantage of the recent heavy snowfall. It was a rare winter wonderland.

Tons of snow hung on everything in the forest. It changes the look of everything with some things highlighted, and others muted. Along with the weak winter light, the covering of snow turns the landscape into a black and white Japanese drawing. Sounds are muffled, all is quiet.

Winter scene bordering Sooke River

Lichen

Everything strained under the weight of the heavy white stuff. Small trees bent over in graceful white arches. Larger trees that were wobbly before the snow have toppled to the ground. The occasional branch gave way and came crashing down, breaking the silence. With the old branches come loads of lichen for wildlife to dine on.

Snow falling on cedars

The snowshoeing was excellent on snow depths ranging from a few centimeters under the trees, and up to 30 + centimeters in open areas. The accumulation was enough for easy off-trail hiking. My winter forest bath was a magical, invigorating moment among my favourite big trees close to home.

It is going to warm up to +8 Celsius by the weekend, so get out and enjoy the snow while it lasts. You will be rewarded with a rare glimpse of the big trees in their stunning winter attire.

Watch for falling branches.

Giant Fallen Douglas-fir Snag

The huge Douglas-fir snag took out a branch of a Bigleaf maple on the way down

On a recent trip up Sooke River road to Sooke Potholes Park to view spawning salmon, I noticed this massive ancient Douglas-fir snag that recently succumbed to the relentless pull of gravity. It looks like it probably made a sound - a big sound.

I am surprised I didn't notice this massive remnant from the ancient forest of days gone by before it fell. It is just off the road, and it is huge! The Douglas-fir had already lost its top which was nowhere to be seen. The 20 meter wind-snapped snag remained, and stood until very recently.

This tree was probably hundreds of years old when the top came off. The remains could have stood for another hundred years or more. During that time insects moved in creating pathways for other organisms that slowly eat and break down the wood. Beetles, sow bugs, termites, centipedes and slugs all came to the banquet.

Soft, decaying wood in large snags allows cavity nesting birds, like woodpeckers, to dig out comfortable homes. A spotted owl may have used the broken top to settle down in and raise a family. A squirrel family may have moved in after the birds moved out. The snag was a vertical ecosystem unto itself, hosting literally billions of organisms.

Having fallen, the snag changes status. Now it is 'large diameter woody debris', an integral component of old growth coastal forests. It will add to the forest floor for hundreds of years more as it breaks down further, providing rich nutrients and habitat for many more organisms.

Perhaps a salamander will discover and occupy the log. Salamanders have smooth, unprotected skin, that requires a moist environment. They don't like heat or dryness, so the fallen log is a perfect haven.

Slabs of thick bark

Decaying logs are sponges that soak up enormous amounts of water over wet coastal winters. During summer droughts the log provides the moisture that the salamanders need.

The tree's status may yet change again, as the log decays into the forest floor and tree seeds establish themselves on it. Then it will be known as a 'nurse log'.

When this huge snag fell, echos of the past resounded through the forest. It was a reminder of the change that happens constantly in intact forest ecosystems.

It was also a reminder of how humans have interfered in this process. Trees like this one are rare today due to our misguided intervention.

Parking In BC Provincial Parks Free Again

British Columbia has over 800 provincial parks. The parks system is celebrating 100 years of preservation this year, but due to massive budget cuts, there has been little to celebrate. A tiny crack in the bad news emerged recently.

For the past few years visitors have had to pay for parking in some BC parks, but no more.

The pay parking program was rescinded by the Liberal government this week, ushering in the return of free parking in some of British Columbia's favourite places.

I see it as one less hassle, one less barrier, to the enjoyment of our parks. Especially some of my favourite local south island big tree hangouts such as Sooke Potholes, Goldstream, French Beach, and Juan de Fuca. You can check out more parks here.

Cutting parking fees will not affect parks funding, most likely because the whole idea was a fiasco from the ill-conceived start. Pay parking was highly unpopular with the public. The meter boxes, often in remote locations, were repeatedly vandalized. Enforcement was a problem as well, again due to the scattered, remote locations. The program likely made little to no money.

French Beach

Parking fees, for some, were a disincentive when planning outings. It would not be a surprise to find that this was the goal when one considers the cuts to provincial park funding over the past decade.

"The result of a decade of neglect is declining attendance. Park visits have dropped by 25 per cent since 1999 -a decline not seen in B.C.'s national parks. Parking meters installed in 42 popular parks have driven away millions of visitors." - Wilderness Committee  

The government may not want visitors to see the lack of interpretive programs for school groups and park visitors. They were cut early on, denying critical educational opportunities these programs offered. They don't want visitors to see the lack of staff to prevent things like poaching. And not just for big game, like Big horn sheep.

Sumallo Grove, Manning Provincial Park

In the winter of 1996-97 poachers cut and carried away three ancient cedars growing in the Sumallo Grove, which can be found in Manning Provincial Park, two hours east of Vancouver.

This old growth forest has the most impressive trees in all of Manning park, and is also distinguished as being the farthest eastern reach of the coastal rain forest in British Columbia. The three large cedar stumps can be seen as you pull into the parking lot.

Since 1996, parks funding has been reduced by 20%, in spite of the system being larger today. I hope free parking is the beginning of our government's return to honouring its commitment to our environment, and parks, and its responsibility to citizens.

Enjoy the parks and the free parking, then ask Premier Clark why this year's budget slashed another $650,000 as a gift for the 100th Anniversary of provincial parks in BC.

Sooke Potholes Parks: Remnant Old Growth Forest (and good swimming)

At the end of scenic Sooke River Road the intrepid big tree adventurer will find not one, but two parks that offer dendro-vistas galore. Even better, the parks can be accessed by cycling or hiking via the Galloping Goose Trail. Often touted as a hangout for swimmers on hot summer days, the Potholes region is also a haven for remnants of undisturbed forest and enormous trees. Only 1% of the original old-growth Coastal Douglas fir zone is protected, so that makes Sooke Potholes Parks a tree treat to treasure.

The patches of old growth forest here have a more varied profile compared to the even-aged tree plantations that have replaced them in "90% of the low elevation, flat ancient forests, such as the valley bottoms, where the largest trees grow and the greatest biodiversity resides." The original forests contain trees of all ages, ranging from new trees struggling to gain a root-hold in the forest floor shade, on up to skyscraping seniors many hundreds of years old towering above the surrounding canopy. It is wild and rugged along the Sooke River canyon, and the forest tenaciously clings to hillsides and cracks in the bedrock.

Older trees are covered in a variety of growth turning their deeply furrowed bark into a mosaic of life. Bracket fungus, Old man's beard and Coastal wood fern hang from twisted branches and grow in aerial gardens. Fallen columns of ancient trunks add nutrients to the soil and nurse new trees to life. A Red-backed vole can live its entire life slowly traversing the branches of a single old growth tree, while a salamander can live its life out in a single decomposing log on the forest floor. Some creatures such as Marbled murrelets, Fishers, and Spotted owls can only thrive in mature forests over 250-300 years old.

The rustic Potholes parks are 5 km up Sooke River Road after turning off from Highway 14. The 5 km drive is beautiful in its own right, with views of big trees along the road, and in the Sooke Hills in the distance. Just before the parks is a truly remarkable Douglas fir by the river on private property.

Maywell Wickheim, local outdoorsman and big tree guy, estimates that the Sooke River fir is 9 ft. in diameter at the base, and 240 ft. high, making it one the largest remaining old trees in the Sooke town area. Spectacular trees like this were common here only a few decades ago.

The first park you reach is Sooke Potholes Provincial Park, and at 7.28 acres, it is the smaller of the two. This day use only park protects old-growth Douglas fir forest, and several trees are of impressive proportions. Among them reside equally chunky Western red cedar and hemlock.

By the time you hit the first parking lot (complete with pit toilets) you are in Sooke Potholes Regional Park. This 156 acre park, which stretches for 5km along the east side of the Sooke River, was saved from development in 2005. It was formed as result of work done by land preservation group The Land Conservancy, the people of Sooke and region, local singing sensation Nelly Furtado, Shaw, and the CRD. The mortgage was recently retired in a ceremonial burning at the park.

The parks provide an excellent spot to view the annual run of Coho and Chinook salmon with a variety of trails down to the river. Other wildlife that use the area include black bear, cougar, and Roosevelt elk, the largest elk species in North America. There is abundant bird life, like the tiny, round, bobbing American dipper that dives for salmon eggs during the fall salmon run.The riverside road through the park ends at the third parking lot for day users, and the campground which is a little further up, for those staying overnight. However, the Galloping Goose Trail continues up the Sooke River valley for several kilometers if you wish to hike or cycle to further adventure. Along the well-maintained, wide trail you will enjoy views of the river rushing over polished bedrock, filling deep pools and tumbling over misty waterfalls. Sprinkled through the surrounding forest are ancient weather beaten trees, guardians that have stood sentinel over these parts for centuries.

With ingredients like these you can't go wrong. The 40 minute drive to Sooke from Victoria gets increasingly more beautiful as you get to your turn off Highway 14 just before the bridge. Once on Sooke River Road you are traveling at an even more leisurely pace. The road is curvy, and the views are great - perfect for ambling along and enjoying "getting there".

Even better would be taking the bus or driving to Sooke with a bike on board. Parking is available at the Park and Ride right at the turn off to Sooke River Road. This is also where the bus can drop you and your cycle.

Then bike up the Galloping Goose Trail which can be accessed off to the right about 1 km up Sooke River Road at the end of Kirby Rd. Cycling the "Goose" is definitely the best way to get to the two parks, and a ride all the way from Victoria could be supported by a stay in the Potholes campground for a night or two before your return trip.

Sooke Potholes Provincial and Regional Parks offer unlimited potential for recreational activities year round, although I wouldn't recommend swimming in the winter. Enjoy the trees, salmon, and other treasures this wild area protects. While there, also appreciate the hard work that has been done by so many to bring us these spectacular parks to enjoy and cherish. Now, how about some parks west of Sooke?